STEELHEAD TROUT - SALMO GAIRDNFRI OR SALMO MYKISS
The magnificent steelhead, a sea run rainbow trout obtaining weights ranging over 20lbs. are considered to be one of the most prized catches in all freshwater fishing. Steelhead are well known for their explosive fighting ability often displaying numerous aerobatic leaps from the fast flowing rivers they return to. When steelhead are landed, and many are not, the sheer beauty of these wonderfully marked fish with all the black spots is enough to take your breath away.
Names: Steelhead, steelhead trout, ironhead, steelie.
Bright steelhead refers to fish newly arrived from the ocean into the river, dark steelhead refers to fish close to or actually spawning, fall back or kelt refers to post spawners.
Identification: Bright (ocean phase or newly arrived in fresh water) steelhead are characterized by a bluish gray back and upper sides with a crisp demarcation between the bright silvery sides. The upper head, back, sides, tail fin and upper fins are profusely speckled with small black spots. The interior of the mouth gum line, tongue, roof is white, which distinguishes it from chinook which feature a black interior mouth, and from coho, which exhibit a grayish colored interior. After some days in the river system the fish develop a slight pink tinge on the gillplate which becomes more distinct as the days pass. At this point the males develop a red lateral stripe, reddish gillcovers and a duller hued to olivaceous colored back. The females at the same time are less brilliantly marked, showing primarily pinkish to reddish gillcovers and a pinkish lateral stripe. The male steelhead's head is longer than the females, with a longer (in advanced spawners) hooked jaw line. As the fish draw nearer to actual spawning time, the colors become much darker in the males and more uneven in the females, at which time they are referred to as dark fish. After spawning, the steelhead loses its dark coloration and becomes dull grayish on the sides, dark gray- ish on the back, and gaunt looking with worn ventral and lower tail fins.
Quick Identification: Square tail, black spots on entire tail, white mouth and gums.
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Oregon Fishing Guides
LEN SELF
Professional Fishing Guide
Home: (503) 631-8161
Cell: (503) 799-6969
CHRIS VERTOPOULOS
Northwest Angling Experience
Home (503) 335-3849
Cell: (503) 349-1377
DENNIS STEWART
Salmon Master Guide Service
Home Phone:
(360) 642 4104
CLANCY HOLT
Clancy's Guided Sportfishing
Reservations: (800) 871-9549
Office: 360-262-9549
Fax: 360-262-3030
DAVID JOHNSON
David Johnson's Guide Service
(503) 201-4292
CHRIS' GUIDE SERVICE
Chris Sessions Guide Service
Home (360) 828-6039
Cell (360) 713 2806
FINS FEATHERS FURS
Travis Moncrief
(503) 842-5141
RIVER'S NORTHWEST
Bob Barthlow
(509) 697-7125
AMERMAN GUIDE SERVICE
Scott Amerman
(503) 606-eggs (3447)
Fishin' Mission Guide Service
Mark S. Zinzer "within minutes of Portland!"
(360) 574-3455
(503) 810-8281
Grant Scheele
(541) 990-6358
FishHawk Adventures
Joe Salvey
(503) 349-1411
Total Fisherman Guide Service
Kevin Newell
(360) 430-2521
Professional Fishing Guide
Home: (503) 631-8161
Cell: (503) 799-6969
CHRIS VERTOPOULOS
Northwest Angling Experience
Home (503) 335-3849
Cell: (503) 349-1377
DENNIS STEWART
Salmon Master Guide Service
Home Phone:
(360) 642 4104
CLANCY HOLT
Clancy's Guided Sportfishing
Reservations: (800) 871-9549
Office: 360-262-9549
Fax: 360-262-3030
DAVID JOHNSON
David Johnson's Guide Service
(503) 201-4292
CHRIS' GUIDE SERVICE
Chris Sessions Guide Service
Home (360) 828-6039
Cell (360) 713 2806
FINS FEATHERS FURS
Travis Moncrief
(503) 842-5141
RIVER'S NORTHWEST
Bob Barthlow
(509) 697-7125
AMERMAN GUIDE SERVICE
Scott Amerman
(503) 606-eggs (3447)
Fishin' Mission Guide Service
Mark S. Zinzer "within minutes of Portland!"
(360) 574-3455
(503) 810-8281
Grant Scheele
(541) 990-6358
FishHawk Adventures
Joe Salvey
(503) 349-1411
Total Fisherman Guide Service
Kevin Newell
(360) 430-2521
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
Definition of a Steelhead
Rainbow trout
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Conservation status
Secure
Scientific classification
Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Class: Actinopterygii
Order: Salmoniformes
Family: Salmonidae
Genus: Oncorhynchus
Species: O. mykiss
Binomial name
Oncorhynchus mykiss
Walbaum, 1792
Subspecies
The rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) is a species of salmonid native to tributaries of the Pacific Ocean in Asia and North America as well as much of the central, western, eastern, and especially the northern portions of the United States. The ocean going (anadromous) form (including those returning for spawning) are known as steelhead, or ocean trout (Australia). The species has been introduced for food or sport to at least 45 countries, and every continent except Antarctica. In some of these locations, such as Southern Europe, Australia and South America, they have had very serious negative impacts on upland native fish species, either by eating them, outcompeting them, transmitting contagious diseases, or hybridization with closely related species and subspecies that are native to western North America.
The species was originally named by Johann Julius Walbaum in 1792 based on type specimens from Kamchatka. Richardson named a specimen of this species Salmo gairdneri in 1836, and in 1855, W. P. Gibbons found a population and named it Salmo iridia, later corrected to Salmo irideus, however these names became deprecated once it was determined that Walbaum's type description was conspecific and therefore had precedence (see e.g. Behnke, 1966).[3] More recently, DNA studies showed rainbow trout are genetically closer to Pacific salmon (Onchorhynchus species) than to brown trout (Salmo trutta) or Atlantic Salmon (Salmo salar), so the genus was changed.
Unlike the species' former name's epithet iridia (Latin: "rainbow"), the specific epithet mykiss derives from the local Kamchatkan name 'mykizha'; all of Walbaum's species names were based on Kamchatkan local names.
Like salmon, steelhead are anadromous: they return to their original hatching ground to spawn. Unlike salmon, which die after spawning, steelhead rejuvenate after spawning so they may return to the oceans to start the anadromous cycle once again. The steelhead smolts (immature or young fish) usually remain in the river for about a year before heading to sea, whereas salmon typically return to the seas as smolts. Different populations of steelheads migrate upriver at different times of the year. "Summer-run steelhead" migrate between May and October, before their reproductive organs are fully mature. They mature in freshwater before spawning in the spring. "Winter-run steelhead" mature fully in the ocean before migrating, between November and April, and spawn shortly after returning. Similar to Atlantic salmon, but unlike their Pacific Oncorhynchus kin, steelhead are iteroparous and may make several spawning trips between fresh and salt water.The life-span of a rainbow trout is between 1 to 2.5ye. Salmon is often sold as a replacement because they taste the same.
Diet
Rainbow trout have a varied diet. They are predators, eating any smaller fish from nearly the time they are born. Insects make up a large portion of the diet, along with crayfish and other crustaceans, some lake dwelling species may become planktonic feeders. While in flowing waters consisting of salmon, trout will eat salmon eggs, salmon fry to even salmon carcasses. Trout of all ages will eat nearly anything they can grab, in contrast with the legendary, selective image people often have of the animal's nutrition habits. They are near the top of the food chain in most freshwater environments. However, they are lower on the rung of other freshwater predators such as pike, muskie, lake trout, and chinook salmon. Rainbows will take fish up to and over 1/3 of their length. However they are not quite as piscivorous or aggressive as the brown trout or lake trout, which is actually a char. The rule of thumb is that rainbows consume more fish and fewer insects as they grow, but insects continue to be a part of the diet in most all populations.
As food
Rainbow trout and potatoes
Rainbow trout and steelhead are popular in Western cuisine and are both caught wild and farmed for food. It has tender flesh and a mild, somewhat nutty flavor. However, farmed trout and those taken from certain lakes have a pronounced earthy flavor which many people find unappealing; many shoppers therefore make it a point to ascertain the source of the fish before buying. Rainbow trout are raised in many countries throughout the world. Rainbow trout that are wild and have a diet of scuds (freshwater shrimp) and crayfish are the most appealing, with orange pink flesh.
Steelhead are farmed, primarily in British Columbia and in Chile. Steelhead meat is pink like that of salmon, and is more flavorful than the light-colored meat of rainbow trout.
In some places, if fished and cleaned immediately, the meat will have a sweet and clean flavor rather than nutty or earthy, especially if it is a native rainbow trout.
Fisheries
Rainbow trout and steelhead are both highly desired food and sportfish. There are some tribal commercial fisheries for steelhead in the Puget Sound, the Washington Coast and in the Columbia River. Most rainbow trout and steelhead harvest in the United States is supported by hatchery production.
The rainbow trout is also especially susceptible to enteric redmouth disease caused by the pathogen Yersinia ruckeri. There has been considerable research conducted on redmouth disease, as its implications for rainbow trout farmers are significant. The disease does not affect humans.
Threats and Conservation
Steelhead trout have declined due to a number of human and natural causes. The U.S. National Marine Fisheries Service has a detailed description of threats. Steelhead that spawn in Southern California streams (south of Point Conception) have been particularly decimated by habitat loss due to dams, confinement of streams in concrete channels, water pollution, groundwater pumping, Urban heat island effects, and other byproducts of urbanization.
Rainbow trout, and subspecies thereof, are currently EPA approved indicator species for acute fresh water aquatic toxicity testing.
Subspecies
This article is in need of attention from an expert on the subject. Please help recruit one or improve this article yourself. See the talk page for details. Please consider using {{Expert-subject}} to associate this request with a WikiProject.
A few populations are recognized as subspecies:
* Kamchatkan rainbow trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss mykiss (Walbaum, 1792).
* Columbia River redband trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss gairdnerii (Richardson, 1836).
* Coastal rainbow trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss irideus (Gibbons, 1855).
* Beardslee trout, isolated in Lake Crescent (Washington), Oncorhynchus mykiss irideus var. beardsleei (not a true subspecies, but a lake dwelling variety of Coastal rainbow trout)[citation needed] (Jordan, 1896).
* Great Basin redband trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss newberrii (Girard, 1859).
* Golden trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss aguabonita (Jordan, 1892).
* Kamloops rainbow trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss kamloops (Jordan, 1892).
* Kern River rainbow trout, Oncorhynchus aguabonita gilberti (Jordan, 1894).
* Sacramento golden trout, Oncorhynchus aguabonita stonei (Jordan, 1894).
* Little Kern golden trout, Oncorhynchus aguabonita whitei (Evermann, 1906).
* Baja California rainbow trout, Nelson's trout, or San Pedro Martir trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss nelsoni (Evermann, 1908).
* Eagle Lake rainbow trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss aquilarum (Snyder, 1917).
* McCloud River redband, Oncorhynchus mykiss stonei
* Sheepheaven Creek redband, Oncorhynchus mykiss spp.
Cultivated varieties
Golden rainbow trout and palomino trout are artificially developed color variants of Oncorhynchus mykiss.[7] Golden rainbow trout are predominantly yellowish, lacking the typical green field and black spots, but retaining the diffuse red stripe.[8] They were developed based on one spontaneously lighter animal.[7] The palomino trout is a mix of golden and common rainbow trout, resulting in an intermediate color. The golden rainbow trout should not be confused with the naturally occurring golden trout.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Conservation status
Secure
Scientific classification
Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Class: Actinopterygii
Order: Salmoniformes
Family: Salmonidae
Genus: Oncorhynchus
Species: O. mykiss
Binomial name
Oncorhynchus mykiss
Walbaum, 1792
Subspecies
The rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) is a species of salmonid native to tributaries of the Pacific Ocean in Asia and North America as well as much of the central, western, eastern, and especially the northern portions of the United States. The ocean going (anadromous) form (including those returning for spawning) are known as steelhead, or ocean trout (Australia). The species has been introduced for food or sport to at least 45 countries, and every continent except Antarctica. In some of these locations, such as Southern Europe, Australia and South America, they have had very serious negative impacts on upland native fish species, either by eating them, outcompeting them, transmitting contagious diseases, or hybridization with closely related species and subspecies that are native to western North America.
The species was originally named by Johann Julius Walbaum in 1792 based on type specimens from Kamchatka. Richardson named a specimen of this species Salmo gairdneri in 1836, and in 1855, W. P. Gibbons found a population and named it Salmo iridia, later corrected to Salmo irideus, however these names became deprecated once it was determined that Walbaum's type description was conspecific and therefore had precedence (see e.g. Behnke, 1966).[3] More recently, DNA studies showed rainbow trout are genetically closer to Pacific salmon (Onchorhynchus species) than to brown trout (Salmo trutta) or Atlantic Salmon (Salmo salar), so the genus was changed.
Unlike the species' former name's epithet iridia (Latin: "rainbow"), the specific epithet mykiss derives from the local Kamchatkan name 'mykizha'; all of Walbaum's species names were based on Kamchatkan local names.
Like salmon, steelhead are anadromous: they return to their original hatching ground to spawn. Unlike salmon, which die after spawning, steelhead rejuvenate after spawning so they may return to the oceans to start the anadromous cycle once again. The steelhead smolts (immature or young fish) usually remain in the river for about a year before heading to sea, whereas salmon typically return to the seas as smolts. Different populations of steelheads migrate upriver at different times of the year. "Summer-run steelhead" migrate between May and October, before their reproductive organs are fully mature. They mature in freshwater before spawning in the spring. "Winter-run steelhead" mature fully in the ocean before migrating, between November and April, and spawn shortly after returning. Similar to Atlantic salmon, but unlike their Pacific Oncorhynchus kin, steelhead are iteroparous and may make several spawning trips between fresh and salt water.The life-span of a rainbow trout is between 1 to 2.5ye. Salmon is often sold as a replacement because they taste the same.
Diet
Rainbow trout have a varied diet. They are predators, eating any smaller fish from nearly the time they are born. Insects make up a large portion of the diet, along with crayfish and other crustaceans, some lake dwelling species may become planktonic feeders. While in flowing waters consisting of salmon, trout will eat salmon eggs, salmon fry to even salmon carcasses. Trout of all ages will eat nearly anything they can grab, in contrast with the legendary, selective image people often have of the animal's nutrition habits. They are near the top of the food chain in most freshwater environments. However, they are lower on the rung of other freshwater predators such as pike, muskie, lake trout, and chinook salmon. Rainbows will take fish up to and over 1/3 of their length. However they are not quite as piscivorous or aggressive as the brown trout or lake trout, which is actually a char. The rule of thumb is that rainbows consume more fish and fewer insects as they grow, but insects continue to be a part of the diet in most all populations.
As food
Rainbow trout and potatoes
Rainbow trout and steelhead are popular in Western cuisine and are both caught wild and farmed for food. It has tender flesh and a mild, somewhat nutty flavor. However, farmed trout and those taken from certain lakes have a pronounced earthy flavor which many people find unappealing; many shoppers therefore make it a point to ascertain the source of the fish before buying. Rainbow trout are raised in many countries throughout the world. Rainbow trout that are wild and have a diet of scuds (freshwater shrimp) and crayfish are the most appealing, with orange pink flesh.
Steelhead are farmed, primarily in British Columbia and in Chile. Steelhead meat is pink like that of salmon, and is more flavorful than the light-colored meat of rainbow trout.
In some places, if fished and cleaned immediately, the meat will have a sweet and clean flavor rather than nutty or earthy, especially if it is a native rainbow trout.
Fisheries
Rainbow trout and steelhead are both highly desired food and sportfish. There are some tribal commercial fisheries for steelhead in the Puget Sound, the Washington Coast and in the Columbia River. Most rainbow trout and steelhead harvest in the United States is supported by hatchery production.
The rainbow trout is also especially susceptible to enteric redmouth disease caused by the pathogen Yersinia ruckeri. There has been considerable research conducted on redmouth disease, as its implications for rainbow trout farmers are significant. The disease does not affect humans.
Threats and Conservation
Steelhead trout have declined due to a number of human and natural causes. The U.S. National Marine Fisheries Service has a detailed description of threats. Steelhead that spawn in Southern California streams (south of Point Conception) have been particularly decimated by habitat loss due to dams, confinement of streams in concrete channels, water pollution, groundwater pumping, Urban heat island effects, and other byproducts of urbanization.
Rainbow trout, and subspecies thereof, are currently EPA approved indicator species for acute fresh water aquatic toxicity testing.
Subspecies
This article is in need of attention from an expert on the subject. Please help recruit one or improve this article yourself. See the talk page for details. Please consider using {{Expert-subject}} to associate this request with a WikiProject.
A few populations are recognized as subspecies:
* Kamchatkan rainbow trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss mykiss (Walbaum, 1792).
* Columbia River redband trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss gairdnerii (Richardson, 1836).
* Coastal rainbow trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss irideus (Gibbons, 1855).
* Beardslee trout, isolated in Lake Crescent (Washington), Oncorhynchus mykiss irideus var. beardsleei (not a true subspecies, but a lake dwelling variety of Coastal rainbow trout)[citation needed] (Jordan, 1896).
* Great Basin redband trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss newberrii (Girard, 1859).
* Golden trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss aguabonita (Jordan, 1892).
* Kamloops rainbow trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss kamloops (Jordan, 1892).
* Kern River rainbow trout, Oncorhynchus aguabonita gilberti (Jordan, 1894).
* Sacramento golden trout, Oncorhynchus aguabonita stonei (Jordan, 1894).
* Little Kern golden trout, Oncorhynchus aguabonita whitei (Evermann, 1906).
* Baja California rainbow trout, Nelson's trout, or San Pedro Martir trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss nelsoni (Evermann, 1908).
* Eagle Lake rainbow trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss aquilarum (Snyder, 1917).
* McCloud River redband, Oncorhynchus mykiss stonei
* Sheepheaven Creek redband, Oncorhynchus mykiss spp.
Cultivated varieties
Golden rainbow trout and palomino trout are artificially developed color variants of Oncorhynchus mykiss.[7] Golden rainbow trout are predominantly yellowish, lacking the typical green field and black spots, but retaining the diffuse red stripe.[8] They were developed based on one spontaneously lighter animal.[7] The palomino trout is a mix of golden and common rainbow trout, resulting in an intermediate color. The golden rainbow trout should not be confused with the naturally occurring golden trout.
Monday, January 26, 2009
Success on the Wilson
I had the opportunity to fish both days this weekend. Saturday was spent exploring some new places my buddy has recently discovered in the Siskyville boat ramp area of the river. We saw many anglers, but few had much to show for their efforts. We fished the upper river all day and witnessed 2 fish caught. Both were natives and both hooked in the very upper river. Sunday started out with snow and a somewhat slow drive down with another buddy. After Saturday's excitement, we decided to fish the lower river. As of Saturday, the river was running at 4.5 and dropping. We started at the Thanksgiving hole and quickly decided it was to low. We made out way back toward the farm fishing every deep hole along the way. I wound up briefly foul hooking what looked to be a fairly bright one from the scale left behind on my hook. The river has changed since last year and now there is a great stretch of drift water just behind the barn at Josey's. After exploring the deeper water, my companion moved upstream and hooked a 12 lb. chrome nate that jumped at least 3 times and gave him a run for his money. We took a couple photos and released him. The new thing seems to a plastic bait call "easy eggs" with yarn. I've been resistant to change, but I've seen it work a couple times now and it's time to give it a try. Around noon, we moved upstream and found Cedar creek empty. After seeing it , I know why. It has changed considerably from last year and filled in almost completely. As a last ditch we hit Jones creek and to my surprise ,there were at least 2 chrome fish laying under the bridge. We attempted to get one to bite, but I'm sure they had been harassed all day and quickly moved upstream. All in all, not a bad way to spend a weekend bank angling. More to come...
Friday, January 23, 2009
Oregon Coast Fishing Techniques
Different techniques and tips for fishing our coastal rivers:
Our fall season produces chinook weighing up to 70 lbs, chrome bright and ready to give you a good fight.
Jetty fishing and Bubble….
If you are fishing our jetty area, fall chinook will be entering in route to our river systems. Chinook start coming into the Tillamook system starting the first week of September. The chinook's food of choice will be herring either plugged or whole. We have found plugged herring works best making nice wide roles as the bait turns. Depending on the current and winds, your lead can range from 24 oz to 8 oz. outside the Bubble (cross the bar). For the Jetty area, your weight will be about 6 oz with about 11 pulls. Fish will come up closer to the surface to feed and you will want your bait there waiting for them.
Bay….Heading from the jetty
The chinook will move into the bay and here you will need to switch gear to spinners. Blade styles of Colorado Deep Cup and Willow leaf are the most popular shapes. Best colors are chartreuse with green dot, green rainbow, red/pearlescent white. Change your weight to about 1 ½ oz when using spinners.
Tidewater area
Just before our rains come, fall chinook enter into our water system known as tidewater and they will wait until there is enough water to allow them to freely move up into the Wilson and Trask Rivers. But the tidewater area is tricky to fish but due to the close proximity to the ocean, this is a great place to target fall chinook. Here, learning to bobber fish and having quality bait is a must.
The tidewater area as mentioned is tricky. The tides move in and out 4 times per day changing the direction it flows and the water is slow moving with poor visibility. But since Chinook has a very keen sense of smell presenting a high quality of eggs that milk down is killer bait. The best cured egg that will milk and produce this scent comes from an egg that has been cured with a wet cure. The fish will smell your bait and know it's there long before they see it. If it smells right, they will search for it and aggressively strike it. This is a good place to use your bigger, less firm eggs since there is little current and not a lot of casting to tear them apart.
When you have a slack tide, Chinook is on the move to get oxygen. When the tides starts coming in, they need to get their bearing and will seek out logs and other obstacles to get oriented. As fish gather on or around these things, you need to target these holes. Same is true on the low tide. As fish will bite anytime, you need to continue presenting bait across times low, slack and high tide.
Bobber Fishing
A very important tip is to make sure your bobber is upright. If its not, you aren't fishing. You will want to fish just off the bottom. Cannon balls or tear drops work great for your weight and weights can vary from ½ oz to 3 oz. You will have to adjust the weight depending on the current.
Tidewater using Kwikfish
Another very effective technique that works well in the tidewater area. Begin with a well-tuned plug wrapped with a sardine around its belly. If you are using the Kwikfish to dive down on its own, use both treble hooks one for the belly and the other at the tail. Use about 3 oz of lead and let the plug work for you. You can also use a diver with your plug but would remove the belly hook and let the salmon really swallow the plug. Always make sure your plugs are cleaned using mild detergent and tuned before using.
Fishing chinook and steelhead on the Wilson and Trask Rivers
Several techniques are used in the river systems. Again, the best technique for chinook is with eggs and sand shrimp. The chinook has a keen sense of smell and presenting them with quality eggs that milk down will increase your fish quota. For our rivers, the most popular combination is called the shrimp cocktail. This is a golf ball size of cured eggs with a sand shrimp above it. Make sure the sand shrimp's head is facing downward towards the hook. First take your egg loop tied hook and line and push the hook through the shrimp's tail and out its head. After pushing the shrimp up the line, wrap the egg loop around your egg cluster and drop the shrimp over the cluster. Add a bobber and bobber stop and you're fishing.
Fishing Tip:
One of our readers sent a fishing tip when fish are rolling but not biting. They suggested adding tuna balls to your line or dipping your bait in tuna oil to give off more scent. This technique can be very effective.
Back Bouncing
Effective on the rivers. The lighter the weight, the more delicate the presentation. Your objective is to get your plug or bait just off the bottom. If the weight is resting on the bottom the rod tip stops wiggling and slack will eventually form in the line. If the weight is too far off bottom, the rod will wiggle rapidly and eventually load and bend much more than usual. Work the holes keeping your line in the riffles. Salmon need oxygen and the faster moving water is supplying them with it. Remember as they move they will stop and regain placement which will be by logs and other structures.
Plug Fishing
Plug fishing the rivers with hotshots is very effective. Sizes 25, 30, 35, 40 are your best bet for our coastal rivers. Size 40 works best for steelhead and trout. The best colors that we have found is white/black, gold, metallic green, and flame. Hot shots are self-planing, diving lure. The faster you pull this plug, the deeper the plug will dive. Generally no additional weights are needed. The big advantage of using a non-weighted plus is that the lure will naturally follow the river currents, guiding it around snags and rocks while still maintaining a position near the bottom, home of most game fish.
Steelhead fishing
Both winter and summer steelhead, jigs with bobbers are very effective. Popular colors for the coast are pink/white; black/red; red/white. The most important tip is that you must fish the jig one to three feet above the steelhead at an absolute dead drift. The key is estimating water depth. As water visibility increases, steelhead will be able to see you and get spooked. Use smaller, lighter gear and don't let your shadow cast over the fish.
Drifting with sand shrimp with hardware or eggs has always been a standby here at the coast. One rod in the boat should at least have shrimp on it. Popular corky colors or plugs are flame, pink/white, green, and orange.
Tuning your Hot Shot
It is imperative that a Plug be tuned correctly. It must "swim" straight and not pull to one side.
If the lure runs to the left, then with the bill facing you, turn the screw eye slightly clockwise. If the lure digs to the right, turn the screw eye slightly counter-clockwise.
Our fall season produces chinook weighing up to 70 lbs, chrome bright and ready to give you a good fight.
Jetty fishing and Bubble….
If you are fishing our jetty area, fall chinook will be entering in route to our river systems. Chinook start coming into the Tillamook system starting the first week of September. The chinook's food of choice will be herring either plugged or whole. We have found plugged herring works best making nice wide roles as the bait turns. Depending on the current and winds, your lead can range from 24 oz to 8 oz. outside the Bubble (cross the bar). For the Jetty area, your weight will be about 6 oz with about 11 pulls. Fish will come up closer to the surface to feed and you will want your bait there waiting for them.
Bay….Heading from the jetty
The chinook will move into the bay and here you will need to switch gear to spinners. Blade styles of Colorado Deep Cup and Willow leaf are the most popular shapes. Best colors are chartreuse with green dot, green rainbow, red/pearlescent white. Change your weight to about 1 ½ oz when using spinners.
Tidewater area
Just before our rains come, fall chinook enter into our water system known as tidewater and they will wait until there is enough water to allow them to freely move up into the Wilson and Trask Rivers. But the tidewater area is tricky to fish but due to the close proximity to the ocean, this is a great place to target fall chinook. Here, learning to bobber fish and having quality bait is a must.
The tidewater area as mentioned is tricky. The tides move in and out 4 times per day changing the direction it flows and the water is slow moving with poor visibility. But since Chinook has a very keen sense of smell presenting a high quality of eggs that milk down is killer bait. The best cured egg that will milk and produce this scent comes from an egg that has been cured with a wet cure. The fish will smell your bait and know it's there long before they see it. If it smells right, they will search for it and aggressively strike it. This is a good place to use your bigger, less firm eggs since there is little current and not a lot of casting to tear them apart.
When you have a slack tide, Chinook is on the move to get oxygen. When the tides starts coming in, they need to get their bearing and will seek out logs and other obstacles to get oriented. As fish gather on or around these things, you need to target these holes. Same is true on the low tide. As fish will bite anytime, you need to continue presenting bait across times low, slack and high tide.
Bobber Fishing
A very important tip is to make sure your bobber is upright. If its not, you aren't fishing. You will want to fish just off the bottom. Cannon balls or tear drops work great for your weight and weights can vary from ½ oz to 3 oz. You will have to adjust the weight depending on the current.
Tidewater using Kwikfish
Another very effective technique that works well in the tidewater area. Begin with a well-tuned plug wrapped with a sardine around its belly. If you are using the Kwikfish to dive down on its own, use both treble hooks one for the belly and the other at the tail. Use about 3 oz of lead and let the plug work for you. You can also use a diver with your plug but would remove the belly hook and let the salmon really swallow the plug. Always make sure your plugs are cleaned using mild detergent and tuned before using.
Fishing chinook and steelhead on the Wilson and Trask Rivers
Several techniques are used in the river systems. Again, the best technique for chinook is with eggs and sand shrimp. The chinook has a keen sense of smell and presenting them with quality eggs that milk down will increase your fish quota. For our rivers, the most popular combination is called the shrimp cocktail. This is a golf ball size of cured eggs with a sand shrimp above it. Make sure the sand shrimp's head is facing downward towards the hook. First take your egg loop tied hook and line and push the hook through the shrimp's tail and out its head. After pushing the shrimp up the line, wrap the egg loop around your egg cluster and drop the shrimp over the cluster. Add a bobber and bobber stop and you're fishing.
Fishing Tip:
One of our readers sent a fishing tip when fish are rolling but not biting. They suggested adding tuna balls to your line or dipping your bait in tuna oil to give off more scent. This technique can be very effective.
Back Bouncing
Effective on the rivers. The lighter the weight, the more delicate the presentation. Your objective is to get your plug or bait just off the bottom. If the weight is resting on the bottom the rod tip stops wiggling and slack will eventually form in the line. If the weight is too far off bottom, the rod will wiggle rapidly and eventually load and bend much more than usual. Work the holes keeping your line in the riffles. Salmon need oxygen and the faster moving water is supplying them with it. Remember as they move they will stop and regain placement which will be by logs and other structures.
Plug Fishing
Plug fishing the rivers with hotshots is very effective. Sizes 25, 30, 35, 40 are your best bet for our coastal rivers. Size 40 works best for steelhead and trout. The best colors that we have found is white/black, gold, metallic green, and flame. Hot shots are self-planing, diving lure. The faster you pull this plug, the deeper the plug will dive. Generally no additional weights are needed. The big advantage of using a non-weighted plus is that the lure will naturally follow the river currents, guiding it around snags and rocks while still maintaining a position near the bottom, home of most game fish.
Steelhead fishing
Both winter and summer steelhead, jigs with bobbers are very effective. Popular colors for the coast are pink/white; black/red; red/white. The most important tip is that you must fish the jig one to three feet above the steelhead at an absolute dead drift. The key is estimating water depth. As water visibility increases, steelhead will be able to see you and get spooked. Use smaller, lighter gear and don't let your shadow cast over the fish.
Drifting with sand shrimp with hardware or eggs has always been a standby here at the coast. One rod in the boat should at least have shrimp on it. Popular corky colors or plugs are flame, pink/white, green, and orange.
Tuning your Hot Shot
It is imperative that a Plug be tuned correctly. It must "swim" straight and not pull to one side.
If the lure runs to the left, then with the bill facing you, turn the screw eye slightly clockwise. If the lure digs to the right, turn the screw eye slightly counter-clockwise.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Steelhead Fishing Techniques
You have all the gear you need to head out on the river and start pulling in that steelhead. However, what are you going to use for bait or to hook them and just how are you going to fish for them.
You have a number of ways that you can fish for steelhead, however, each will require their own special gear.
Drift fishing for steelhead may be the most common method used when steelhead fishing.
It requires the least amount of gear since all you need is a weight/sinker and a hook. Drift fishing produces steelhead for anglers on a steady basis also. However, drift fishing does require that an angler learn how to read the river and they will need to realize just what a bite feels like. Although the steelhead is large and aggressive fish, their bite can be quite difficult for the beginning angler to detect. Even after forty years of fishing, they still surprise me from time to time.
For the beginning angler there are two ways that I recommend for them to try when first starting out. Jig fishing or plunking for steelhead are easy productive ways of fishing. Jig fishing with a bobber or float is the most productive way I have found for the novice angler to start catching fish.
* The bite is easy to detect since you watch your float and when it goes down you set the hook.
* You do not have to worry about getting snagged, and spend all your time tying on new rigs.
* You can watch your float and know exactly where you jig is at, making it easier to find the seams in the river.
* It is one of the best ways an angler can fish deep slow moving pools, I use this method on a number of hole that I would not be able to fish other wise.
Plunking is a style of fishing just as its name implies. You set up a rig, and plunk it out in the river and wait for a steelhead to come along and take your offering. Plunking too can be very productive under the right circumstances. Learning when and where to use this method will take some experience however. Unless some one has shown you, a good place and time to try this method you will be better of using the float and jig as it will produce fish through out the season.
Using a side planner along with a hotshot lure or something similar is an exciting way to catch steelhead also. Here again you need to know how to read the river and have some idea of where a steelhead will lay or travel through. Once you learn how to set this up and fish it correctly, it will produce fish on days when nothing else will work.
I should mention here that fly-fishing for steelhead might not be the most productive method of catching steelhead it for sure is the most exciting and we ill be covering fly-fishing in later articles also. For those of you that would like to give fly-fishing a try you will need to have lots of patients and strong determination; however, the rewards are well worth the effort once a steelhead is on your line.
If you have access to a boat then trolling, back trolling, back drifting, are some of the other ways you can fish. If you do not have a boat do not worry as a majority of the steelhead we catch are from the bank. Even when we have had use of a boat, we often find ourselves beaching the boat so we can fish a hole from shore. I would be the first to say a boat is nice to have at times; however, they are not a necessary item to catch steelhead
Learning what technique to use, and when to use it, comes with experience and we will be covering each of these in detail in the coming days. We are going to be talking about what type of gear you will need for each technique, show you how to set it up, where to use it, and how to seek out those holding spots where steelhead just love to lay.
Until Next, time The Steelhead Angler.
You have a number of ways that you can fish for steelhead, however, each will require their own special gear.
Drift fishing for steelhead may be the most common method used when steelhead fishing.
It requires the least amount of gear since all you need is a weight/sinker and a hook. Drift fishing produces steelhead for anglers on a steady basis also. However, drift fishing does require that an angler learn how to read the river and they will need to realize just what a bite feels like. Although the steelhead is large and aggressive fish, their bite can be quite difficult for the beginning angler to detect. Even after forty years of fishing, they still surprise me from time to time.
For the beginning angler there are two ways that I recommend for them to try when first starting out. Jig fishing or plunking for steelhead are easy productive ways of fishing. Jig fishing with a bobber or float is the most productive way I have found for the novice angler to start catching fish.
* The bite is easy to detect since you watch your float and when it goes down you set the hook.
* You do not have to worry about getting snagged, and spend all your time tying on new rigs.
* You can watch your float and know exactly where you jig is at, making it easier to find the seams in the river.
* It is one of the best ways an angler can fish deep slow moving pools, I use this method on a number of hole that I would not be able to fish other wise.
Plunking is a style of fishing just as its name implies. You set up a rig, and plunk it out in the river and wait for a steelhead to come along and take your offering. Plunking too can be very productive under the right circumstances. Learning when and where to use this method will take some experience however. Unless some one has shown you, a good place and time to try this method you will be better of using the float and jig as it will produce fish through out the season.
Using a side planner along with a hotshot lure or something similar is an exciting way to catch steelhead also. Here again you need to know how to read the river and have some idea of where a steelhead will lay or travel through. Once you learn how to set this up and fish it correctly, it will produce fish on days when nothing else will work.
I should mention here that fly-fishing for steelhead might not be the most productive method of catching steelhead it for sure is the most exciting and we ill be covering fly-fishing in later articles also. For those of you that would like to give fly-fishing a try you will need to have lots of patients and strong determination; however, the rewards are well worth the effort once a steelhead is on your line.
If you have access to a boat then trolling, back trolling, back drifting, are some of the other ways you can fish. If you do not have a boat do not worry as a majority of the steelhead we catch are from the bank. Even when we have had use of a boat, we often find ourselves beaching the boat so we can fish a hole from shore. I would be the first to say a boat is nice to have at times; however, they are not a necessary item to catch steelhead
Learning what technique to use, and when to use it, comes with experience and we will be covering each of these in detail in the coming days. We are going to be talking about what type of gear you will need for each technique, show you how to set it up, where to use it, and how to seek out those holding spots where steelhead just love to lay.
Until Next, time The Steelhead Angler.
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Success!
With the Wilson in perfect condition, we set out on Saturday to be the first to fish the Thanksgiving hole on Jose's property in Tillamook. We arrived just as it was begining to get light and made our way down to the hole. I love the feeling of being the first to drift a bait through a hole you know has steelhead in it. My partner and I fished for about an hour before the boats started coming by. We knew it would be a busy day for boat traffic, so we wanted to hook up before to many boats messed up our spot. Around 9:00 I found the spot and hooked the first of 3 that all bit within 20 minutes of each other. All on a peach colored corky and yarn with 8 lb. leaders. Between the second and third fish, a boat drifted through and caught one directly in front of me on what looked like a bobber and jig combo. After the morning flurry, we didn't touch another fish the rest of the day. I found out later from another buddy that the bulk of the fish were higher in the system, which is not surprising since we had such high water a week ago. I heard of 15 other fish hooked on the upper river. Any day you get multiple hook ups steelhead fishing, you know conditions are good. It gives you confidence to concentrate on every cast and make every cast count. I can't wait to get back out again. Until then...
Thursday, January 15, 2009
We have it all!
Many times the great state of Oregon can get overlooked as a fishing destination is the United States. When you think of fishing states, Colorado, Florida, Texas, Alaska and even Montana come to mind, but Oregon? Not so much. But the great state of Oregon should come to mind when it comes to fishing, there's little doubt about that. The Columbia River summer sturgeon fishery is just one of many options an angler may choose to partake in. Oregon's fishing opportunities range from steelhead fishing the famed Deschutes River, wade fishing for spring Chinook on an Oregon Cascade Range fed river to saltwater fishing for big halibut, powerful schools of tuna or abundant rock fish species. Oregon fishing is some of the most diverse that can be found in North America.
Many anglers think of Alaska, when it comes to salmon and steelhead fishing, but Oregon's Columbia River sees returns of over one million salmon and steelhead annually. Throw in rivers like the Rogue, Umpqua and the John Day and estuary fisheries like Tillamook Bay for its famed huge fall Chinook and you'll begin to see what Oregon has to offer the average angler. Whether you are a beginning angler or very experienced, Oregon has something for you.
Don't think Oregon is only about big game fish like Steelhead, salmon, sturgeon, and Halibut. There are a ton of opportunities for fishing for everything from stocked trout to Largemouth Bass. When it comes to fishing, Oregon literally has it all. Oregon's fishing regulations are much like other states, and it's always a good idea to check to make sure the method you intend to use is legal. For those of you who use live bait (especially worms) gang hooks are completely legal, which is a good thing. This means that in the great state of Oregon, presenting your live bait (especially worms) with a set of gang hooks is the best way to go, because gang hooks are the best way to present your bait in a completely natural manner.
If you're a resident of Oregon a fishing license is very affordable, about $25. Non-resident licenses are under $65 and if you only plan on fishing for a short time, 1 through 7 day licenses are available. If you're planning on fishing for salmon, steelhead, or halibut a combination tag is needed, but it will only run you about $20. Not only is Oregon a great place to fish and is also very affordable. The bottom line is that Oregon and fishing most certainly go together, and the next time you think about fishing, you should think of the great state of Oregon.
Trevor Kugler is co-founder of JRWfishing.com and an avid angler. He has more than 20 years experience fishing for all types of fish, and 15 years of business and internet experience. He currently raises his three year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country.....Montana!
Gang Hooks Tied & Ready To Fish: http://www.jrwfishing.com/gang_hooks.asp
Many anglers think of Alaska, when it comes to salmon and steelhead fishing, but Oregon's Columbia River sees returns of over one million salmon and steelhead annually. Throw in rivers like the Rogue, Umpqua and the John Day and estuary fisheries like Tillamook Bay for its famed huge fall Chinook and you'll begin to see what Oregon has to offer the average angler. Whether you are a beginning angler or very experienced, Oregon has something for you.
Don't think Oregon is only about big game fish like Steelhead, salmon, sturgeon, and Halibut. There are a ton of opportunities for fishing for everything from stocked trout to Largemouth Bass. When it comes to fishing, Oregon literally has it all. Oregon's fishing regulations are much like other states, and it's always a good idea to check to make sure the method you intend to use is legal. For those of you who use live bait (especially worms) gang hooks are completely legal, which is a good thing. This means that in the great state of Oregon, presenting your live bait (especially worms) with a set of gang hooks is the best way to go, because gang hooks are the best way to present your bait in a completely natural manner.
If you're a resident of Oregon a fishing license is very affordable, about $25. Non-resident licenses are under $65 and if you only plan on fishing for a short time, 1 through 7 day licenses are available. If you're planning on fishing for salmon, steelhead, or halibut a combination tag is needed, but it will only run you about $20. Not only is Oregon a great place to fish and is also very affordable. The bottom line is that Oregon and fishing most certainly go together, and the next time you think about fishing, you should think of the great state of Oregon.
Trevor Kugler is co-founder of JRWfishing.com and an avid angler. He has more than 20 years experience fishing for all types of fish, and 15 years of business and internet experience. He currently raises his three year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country.....Montana!
Gang Hooks Tied & Ready To Fish: http://www.jrwfishing.com/gang_hooks.asp
Staying Warm
Dressing for Winter Steelhead Fishing by RR Smith
0
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voteWhen I started fishing for winter Steelhead over forty years ago and being much younger then, a jacket and a good pair of boots and I was ready. As the old saying goes with age comes wisdom and I guess this must be true. I have been steelhead fishing when my hands and feet were so cold that you could not fish and often wondered if it was even worth the pain just for a chance to hook a steelhead.
I have since learned that dressing correctly will not only improve your fishing success it will make the experience so much more enjoyable. If you fish for steelhead, you are eventually going to find yourself fishing under some of Mother Nature's worst conditions. While many angler will retreat to the comfort of there warm cozy recliner when the weather turns cold and nasty. They are missing some of the best steelhead fishing as we have found that the worst the weather the better the steelhead fishing.
I tell you my friends, there is nothing like the comfort of being warm. You are going to find yourself steelheading when the temperature is in the 30's with rain, snow, and sleet. Moreover, yes, you may very well have all three during the same fishing trip. You will be glad you have the appropriate gear to keep you warm. Being able to keep warm will make steelhead fishing enjoyable instead of a test to prove just how cold you can get and still fish.
Here is my suggested checklist when for winter steelhead fishing.
1. Waterproof Boots A good pair of waterproof boots is necessary; I do not care how careful you are eventually you find yourself stepping in the river. Even if you manage to stay out of the river fishing when the rain and snow is coming down, your feet are going to get wet just walking down to the river once your feet are wet and cold you will be cold the rest of the day.
2. Rain coat. Another must have item. The raincoat really comes down to your own comfort. The bottom line here is you want something to keep you dry in a driving rain or snowstorm.
3. Your hat. I like a hat with a wide brim to keep the rain off your ears and from running down your neck. A good, quality oilskin hat that will keep your head dry and shed the rain away from your neck is my preferred choice. Do not forget about a good stocking cap too if it is not raining but you find the wind, blowing you just cannot beat the comfort and warmth of a good stocking cap. A dry head is a warm head and since you, loose a majority of your body's heat through your head a warm head means a warm body.
4. Underclothing. There are all kinds of things out there now. You can use anything designed to keep the moisture out and the heat in. Over that, I usually wear something of wool, or some other type of material that will shed water. Remember to dress in layers and the number of layers all depends on how warm or cold-blooded you are. Some people like 3-4 layers, while others just 1 or 2. You can often find some great deals at your local REI or Sporting goods store for these items.
5. Gloves You are going to need to keep your hand warm as well, a thin warm pair of gloves that slip on and off quickly are what I prefer some of my partners like the fingerless gloves as well. Try not to get gloves that are thick and bulky though as they make it extremely hard to fish in. If you really need the added thickness to keep your hands warm then go ahead and use them, it is better to have warm hand and adjust your fishing techniques then to risk the chance of frostbite, or just have your fingers so cold that they do not want to work right.
6. Insulated Coveralls I have recently started using insulated coveralls and I must say that I do enjoy them. If you were thinking about coveralls, I would recommend that you find some with the zippers that come up the full length of both legs they are much easier to put on and off without having to take off you boots. That way you can take them with you and if you need them once you arrive at the river you can just slip them on.
7. Get yourself a dry bag. You will not regret having an extra set of clothes for emergencies. You never know when you will slip on a rock, or get plain soaked due to heavy weather. Just Keep your dry bag in the truck or boat and it will be ready should you ever need it.
About the Author
Here at the Steelhead Angler we believe that Steelhead and Salmon fishing is one of the most challenging sports fishing experiences. Today's angler has a wide selection of fishing locations and fishing styles to enjoy. It is our mission to provide you with the knowledge and products to help you become a better steelhead angler.
The Steelhead Angler
0
votes
voteWhen I started fishing for winter Steelhead over forty years ago and being much younger then, a jacket and a good pair of boots and I was ready. As the old saying goes with age comes wisdom and I guess this must be true. I have been steelhead fishing when my hands and feet were so cold that you could not fish and often wondered if it was even worth the pain just for a chance to hook a steelhead.
I have since learned that dressing correctly will not only improve your fishing success it will make the experience so much more enjoyable. If you fish for steelhead, you are eventually going to find yourself fishing under some of Mother Nature's worst conditions. While many angler will retreat to the comfort of there warm cozy recliner when the weather turns cold and nasty. They are missing some of the best steelhead fishing as we have found that the worst the weather the better the steelhead fishing.
I tell you my friends, there is nothing like the comfort of being warm. You are going to find yourself steelheading when the temperature is in the 30's with rain, snow, and sleet. Moreover, yes, you may very well have all three during the same fishing trip. You will be glad you have the appropriate gear to keep you warm. Being able to keep warm will make steelhead fishing enjoyable instead of a test to prove just how cold you can get and still fish.
Here is my suggested checklist when for winter steelhead fishing.
1. Waterproof Boots A good pair of waterproof boots is necessary; I do not care how careful you are eventually you find yourself stepping in the river. Even if you manage to stay out of the river fishing when the rain and snow is coming down, your feet are going to get wet just walking down to the river once your feet are wet and cold you will be cold the rest of the day.
2. Rain coat. Another must have item. The raincoat really comes down to your own comfort. The bottom line here is you want something to keep you dry in a driving rain or snowstorm.
3. Your hat. I like a hat with a wide brim to keep the rain off your ears and from running down your neck. A good, quality oilskin hat that will keep your head dry and shed the rain away from your neck is my preferred choice. Do not forget about a good stocking cap too if it is not raining but you find the wind, blowing you just cannot beat the comfort and warmth of a good stocking cap. A dry head is a warm head and since you, loose a majority of your body's heat through your head a warm head means a warm body.
4. Underclothing. There are all kinds of things out there now. You can use anything designed to keep the moisture out and the heat in. Over that, I usually wear something of wool, or some other type of material that will shed water. Remember to dress in layers and the number of layers all depends on how warm or cold-blooded you are. Some people like 3-4 layers, while others just 1 or 2. You can often find some great deals at your local REI or Sporting goods store for these items.
5. Gloves You are going to need to keep your hand warm as well, a thin warm pair of gloves that slip on and off quickly are what I prefer some of my partners like the fingerless gloves as well. Try not to get gloves that are thick and bulky though as they make it extremely hard to fish in. If you really need the added thickness to keep your hands warm then go ahead and use them, it is better to have warm hand and adjust your fishing techniques then to risk the chance of frostbite, or just have your fingers so cold that they do not want to work right.
6. Insulated Coveralls I have recently started using insulated coveralls and I must say that I do enjoy them. If you were thinking about coveralls, I would recommend that you find some with the zippers that come up the full length of both legs they are much easier to put on and off without having to take off you boots. That way you can take them with you and if you need them once you arrive at the river you can just slip them on.
7. Get yourself a dry bag. You will not regret having an extra set of clothes for emergencies. You never know when you will slip on a rock, or get plain soaked due to heavy weather. Just Keep your dry bag in the truck or boat and it will be ready should you ever need it.
About the Author
Here at the Steelhead Angler we believe that Steelhead and Salmon fishing is one of the most challenging sports fishing experiences. Today's angler has a wide selection of fishing locations and fishing styles to enjoy. It is our mission to provide you with the knowledge and products to help you become a better steelhead angler.
The Steelhead Angler
Rod Tips
Steelhead Fishing Rods by RR Smith
0
votes
vote
Finding the right steelhead fishing rod can be challenging however, with the choices available today I am sure you can find a fishing rod that will match your style of fishing. Whether you are trolling from a boat or drift fishing from the bank there is a Fishing Rod for you.
From a beefy, six foot model, which is perfect for fishing from a boat, to the ten, and twelve foot models for those longer cast needed by the bank angler. Whether you enjoy drift fishing, trolling, or throwing jigs, finding the right rod is important.
There are three types of rods used for steelhead fishing, spinning rods, casting rods and fly rods. For now, we will talk about the spinning and casting rods. Fly-fishing for steelhead is another story that we will get into later in this series.
Spinning Rods The spinning rod is the most widely used type of rod among today's anglers. This is because the spinning reel is easy to use and is so versatile. The spinning rod allows the angler to cast the smallest of baits and lures as well as some of the heaviest. You can easily change lure weight and make cast without having to worry about changing the setting on the reel.
Spinning rods are specially designed to be used with the spinning reel the forward eyes are much larger then the casting rod. This is because it cuts down on the friction caused as the line uncoils off the spool. Since the line uncoils off a stationary spool, it causes a whipping action. The larger eyes allow casting without causing unnecessary friction on the line giving the spinning rod improved casting abilities.
The spinning rod also has a longer butt (the portion off the rod located behind the reel) to aid the angler while casting and fighting fish. This longer portion helps with balancing the rod to the reel as well.
The spinning rod makes for an excellent all-round fishing rod providing the angler with a wide range of fishing styles and types. If you are on a budget or maybe you just do not want to have to use several types of rod combinations a spinning rod will be your best option.
Casting Rods The casting rod is a rod especially designed for use with a baitcasting reel. The eyes of these rods are smaller in diameter and are typically placed closer together then you will find on a spinning rod. Placing the eyes closer together gives the casting rod a smoother action and feel. This is one reason why many anglers prefer a casting rod to other types of rods.
The reel seats are also design to accommodate the baitcasting reel since this type of reel normally has a smaller foot. Casting rod also typically has a finger grip placed below and back of the reel seat. This aids the angler in maintaining a firm grip on the rod and is necessary because a Baitcast reel sits so much lower on the rod and your hand is behind the reel when casting.
Many anglers believe that a casting rod is capable of providing the angler with a longer and more controlled cast. Once you become accustomed to the casting rod, you will most likely find this to be true.
Using a casting rod will give a greater since of feel while fishing because they work so smoothly. You will notice the lightest of strikes that you may have missed while using a spinning reel. This fact alone may well be the reason that the seasoned steelhead angler prefer to use a baitcasting reel and rod.
Rod Action is the term used to describe how much of the rod bends when applying pressure to the tip of the rod.
The fast action rod will bend in only the top third or less of the rod.
The medium or moderate action will bend in the top half.
The slow action will bend starting in the lower third of the rod. Sometimes slow action rods are termed 'parabolic', meaning the bend of the rod is similar throughout the length.
These descriptions depend on the type of rod you may be talking about at the time; a fast action fly rod or steelhead rod will bend much lower and more easily than a fast action bass rod or offshore rod.
By fast Action mean the rod 'shuts off' faster, or the bend ends higher on the blank, which means you don't have to move the rod as far on the hook set to get into the stiffer part of the Rod.
Fast action rods are great for most applications where a short to medium casting distance is involved and single hooks are the rule, such as corky and bait fishing.
Medium and medium-fast rods will usually provide a little more casting distance and still provide adequate hook setting power. These actions often used for applications that involve treble hooks, like using a hot shot. The 'strike' of a treble hook is not as deep as a big single hook and it is easier to tear the hook out of a strong fish, plus the slower action will not pull the lure out of the fish's mouth before it fully engulfs it. Yet you still will have the power for a good hook set.
Slow action rods will give you a better feel when drift fishing and may help you feel the strike a little easier. Since they are more responsive, you may be able to notice that subtle difference between bouncing over a rock and having a steelhead picking it up. When using a slow action rod you need to remember that setting the hook is going to require you to use more force when jerking.
The type of lure you use will usually determine the action of the rod you should use.
Taper: Often used as "action", describes not only the thickness of the rod but also the thickness of the wall of the blank and where along the blank less material is used allowing more bend. For the most part taper is the same as action.
Power: Power describes the strength of the rod or its lifting power. When you hear someone say this rod has a lot of backbone, it means it has a lot of power. Power ratings are usually describes as heavy, medium, light, etc.
Power determines the line strength; heavier power rods will handle heavy line weights and lighter powers will be good for light lines.
One important factor to keep in mind when selecting the power of your rod is the test of your line. Most all rods will have the line test limits printed on the rod. It is important to follow these recommendations since a heavy power rod will snap light lines too easily and heavy lines can snap a light rod.
Power ratings vary by the type of rod described; a heavy Steelhead rod and a heavy offshore rod will definitely not feel the same. A heavy steelhead rod rated for 20lb test line will not perform like a heavy off shore rod rated for 80lb test line.
The type of water you are fishing will help determine the power of the rod you should select. Fishing in high, fast moving or murky water will require a strong rod to get the fish out before it can make a long run and throw the hook. Clear, open water will often require thin, hard seeing lines in order to get the steelhead to bite, meaning you should use a lighter power rod.
Responsiveness: Related to modulus this reflects the ability of the entire rod to flex under load and release the stored energy in the cast. One thing is for sure, the lighter the rod, especially the tip, the more responsive it will be. If you are serious about steelhead fishing, you want a light yet responsive rod. As Gary Loomis puts it, "weight is the deterrent to performance". Overall, the higher the modulus the more efficiently it will store and release energy, which gives you the ability to make an accurate, cast with a lower arc.
Guides: Most of the guides you will find on rods today feature a metal frame and a ceramic ring that the line rest on as it glides through the guides. These rings can vary greatly in price, and one single guide on a spinning rod may cost in excess of $30 or as little as a couple of bucks.
Silicon carbide, or SiC, considered the best material today. It offers smooth surface for less friction on the line during the cast and the retrieve. Less friction means longer casts and less heat, and heat kills when it comes to fishing lines.
As for the brand name or the type of rod whether, it is casting or spinning it comes down more of a personal choice. Your main goal when selecting rod action is finding one the will match the type of fishing you plan on doing.
For the beginning steelhead angler I would recommend a seven to eight foot spinning rod, medium, to medium light action, and capable of using lines in the 10 to 20 lb. test range.
About the Author
The Steelhead AnglerHere at the Steelhead Angler we believe that Steelhead and Salmon fishing is one of the most challenging sports fishing experiences. Today's angler has a wide selection of fishing locations and fishing styles to enjoy. It is our mission to provide you with the knowledge and products to help you become a better steelhead angler.The Steelhead Angler
0
votes
vote
Finding the right steelhead fishing rod can be challenging however, with the choices available today I am sure you can find a fishing rod that will match your style of fishing. Whether you are trolling from a boat or drift fishing from the bank there is a Fishing Rod for you.
From a beefy, six foot model, which is perfect for fishing from a boat, to the ten, and twelve foot models for those longer cast needed by the bank angler. Whether you enjoy drift fishing, trolling, or throwing jigs, finding the right rod is important.
There are three types of rods used for steelhead fishing, spinning rods, casting rods and fly rods. For now, we will talk about the spinning and casting rods. Fly-fishing for steelhead is another story that we will get into later in this series.
Spinning Rods The spinning rod is the most widely used type of rod among today's anglers. This is because the spinning reel is easy to use and is so versatile. The spinning rod allows the angler to cast the smallest of baits and lures as well as some of the heaviest. You can easily change lure weight and make cast without having to worry about changing the setting on the reel.
Spinning rods are specially designed to be used with the spinning reel the forward eyes are much larger then the casting rod. This is because it cuts down on the friction caused as the line uncoils off the spool. Since the line uncoils off a stationary spool, it causes a whipping action. The larger eyes allow casting without causing unnecessary friction on the line giving the spinning rod improved casting abilities.
The spinning rod also has a longer butt (the portion off the rod located behind the reel) to aid the angler while casting and fighting fish. This longer portion helps with balancing the rod to the reel as well.
The spinning rod makes for an excellent all-round fishing rod providing the angler with a wide range of fishing styles and types. If you are on a budget or maybe you just do not want to have to use several types of rod combinations a spinning rod will be your best option.
Casting Rods The casting rod is a rod especially designed for use with a baitcasting reel. The eyes of these rods are smaller in diameter and are typically placed closer together then you will find on a spinning rod. Placing the eyes closer together gives the casting rod a smoother action and feel. This is one reason why many anglers prefer a casting rod to other types of rods.
The reel seats are also design to accommodate the baitcasting reel since this type of reel normally has a smaller foot. Casting rod also typically has a finger grip placed below and back of the reel seat. This aids the angler in maintaining a firm grip on the rod and is necessary because a Baitcast reel sits so much lower on the rod and your hand is behind the reel when casting.
Many anglers believe that a casting rod is capable of providing the angler with a longer and more controlled cast. Once you become accustomed to the casting rod, you will most likely find this to be true.
Using a casting rod will give a greater since of feel while fishing because they work so smoothly. You will notice the lightest of strikes that you may have missed while using a spinning reel. This fact alone may well be the reason that the seasoned steelhead angler prefer to use a baitcasting reel and rod.
Rod Action is the term used to describe how much of the rod bends when applying pressure to the tip of the rod.
The fast action rod will bend in only the top third or less of the rod.
The medium or moderate action will bend in the top half.
The slow action will bend starting in the lower third of the rod. Sometimes slow action rods are termed 'parabolic', meaning the bend of the rod is similar throughout the length.
These descriptions depend on the type of rod you may be talking about at the time; a fast action fly rod or steelhead rod will bend much lower and more easily than a fast action bass rod or offshore rod.
By fast Action mean the rod 'shuts off' faster, or the bend ends higher on the blank, which means you don't have to move the rod as far on the hook set to get into the stiffer part of the Rod.
Fast action rods are great for most applications where a short to medium casting distance is involved and single hooks are the rule, such as corky and bait fishing.
Medium and medium-fast rods will usually provide a little more casting distance and still provide adequate hook setting power. These actions often used for applications that involve treble hooks, like using a hot shot. The 'strike' of a treble hook is not as deep as a big single hook and it is easier to tear the hook out of a strong fish, plus the slower action will not pull the lure out of the fish's mouth before it fully engulfs it. Yet you still will have the power for a good hook set.
Slow action rods will give you a better feel when drift fishing and may help you feel the strike a little easier. Since they are more responsive, you may be able to notice that subtle difference between bouncing over a rock and having a steelhead picking it up. When using a slow action rod you need to remember that setting the hook is going to require you to use more force when jerking.
The type of lure you use will usually determine the action of the rod you should use.
Taper: Often used as "action", describes not only the thickness of the rod but also the thickness of the wall of the blank and where along the blank less material is used allowing more bend. For the most part taper is the same as action.
Power: Power describes the strength of the rod or its lifting power. When you hear someone say this rod has a lot of backbone, it means it has a lot of power. Power ratings are usually describes as heavy, medium, light, etc.
Power determines the line strength; heavier power rods will handle heavy line weights and lighter powers will be good for light lines.
One important factor to keep in mind when selecting the power of your rod is the test of your line. Most all rods will have the line test limits printed on the rod. It is important to follow these recommendations since a heavy power rod will snap light lines too easily and heavy lines can snap a light rod.
Power ratings vary by the type of rod described; a heavy Steelhead rod and a heavy offshore rod will definitely not feel the same. A heavy steelhead rod rated for 20lb test line will not perform like a heavy off shore rod rated for 80lb test line.
The type of water you are fishing will help determine the power of the rod you should select. Fishing in high, fast moving or murky water will require a strong rod to get the fish out before it can make a long run and throw the hook. Clear, open water will often require thin, hard seeing lines in order to get the steelhead to bite, meaning you should use a lighter power rod.
Responsiveness: Related to modulus this reflects the ability of the entire rod to flex under load and release the stored energy in the cast. One thing is for sure, the lighter the rod, especially the tip, the more responsive it will be. If you are serious about steelhead fishing, you want a light yet responsive rod. As Gary Loomis puts it, "weight is the deterrent to performance". Overall, the higher the modulus the more efficiently it will store and release energy, which gives you the ability to make an accurate, cast with a lower arc.
Guides: Most of the guides you will find on rods today feature a metal frame and a ceramic ring that the line rest on as it glides through the guides. These rings can vary greatly in price, and one single guide on a spinning rod may cost in excess of $30 or as little as a couple of bucks.
Silicon carbide, or SiC, considered the best material today. It offers smooth surface for less friction on the line during the cast and the retrieve. Less friction means longer casts and less heat, and heat kills when it comes to fishing lines.
As for the brand name or the type of rod whether, it is casting or spinning it comes down more of a personal choice. Your main goal when selecting rod action is finding one the will match the type of fishing you plan on doing.
For the beginning steelhead angler I would recommend a seven to eight foot spinning rod, medium, to medium light action, and capable of using lines in the 10 to 20 lb. test range.
About the Author
The Steelhead AnglerHere at the Steelhead Angler we believe that Steelhead and Salmon fishing is one of the most challenging sports fishing experiences. Today's angler has a wide selection of fishing locations and fishing styles to enjoy. It is our mission to provide you with the knowledge and products to help you become a better steelhead angler.The Steelhead Angler
Reel Tips
Steelhead Fishing by RR Smith
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There are three popular types of fishing reels used for fishing today. The spinning reel, spin-casting reel, and baitcasting reel each provide the angler with different performance characteristics.
The Spinning Reel Perhaps the most commonly used reel today have been used by angler around the world and offer the angler the full spectrum of fishing types. They are easy to learn how to use and come in a full range of sizes. The spinning reel can be used for the smallest of game fish to some of the largest. You will find them with either a front or rear-drag adjustment system. This like the reel choice is more of a matter of personal preference.
The Spin-Casting Reel This is probably the easiest, most trouble free reel type that, and angler can buy. It is very popular among the novice anglers for this reason. While they do have minimum limits as to the amount of line they hold and they do not cast as far as other types of reels they are still a good choice for the beginning and young angler.
Baitcasting ReelsSome believe that the baitcasting reel is the ultimate in fishing reels. While you will enjoy their smooth performance, they too have their own limitations. They do provide the angler with longer casting capabilities under most circumstances and they have a drag system, which will provide the angler total control of the adjustment.
Spinning reels The spinning fishing reels are an open-faced reel. Your line is released from a stationary spool by flipping a bail wire, a piece of metal wire across the spool called a bail. This stationary spool keeps the line in place and helps prevent snarls and tangled line. The weight of your lure or bait is what propels the line forward when casting. Spinning reels can handle smaller baits lures, or weights. However, today's spinning reels are designed for use on the lightest to some of the heavier fish such as the steelhead and salmon. The spinning reel comes in either a left or right hand retrieve, or some are adjustable for either hand. Spinning reels use an anti-reverse, a simple mechanism you can set to keep the reel from turning in reveres. The anti-reverse lock is usually a lever mounted on the gear housing cover or the back of the reel. This keeps your line from spooling off once you get a strike from a fish. It prevents the reel handle from turning in reverse when you hook a fish and it runs or when you are trolling. This simple to use lever can be easily tripped on or off allowing you control of your line when releasing for trolling and then tripped while waiting for a fish to strike. Automatic anti-reverse requires no manual settings this type of reel will not spin backwards.
The spinning reel is widely used among steelhead anglers as it allows you to switch for the heaviest of baits to the lightest and still be able to cast well.
Baitcasting ReelThe baitcasting reel sometimes called a levelwind reel may be the most preferred type of reel by experience steelhead anglers under most fishing circumstances today.
Baitcasting reels work with the weight from the bait or lure. This weight pulls on the line and turns the spool, as the spool turns it releases more line. The heavier the lure is the longer the cast can be.
With practice, this style of reel also will allow you to cast more accurately.
The more experienced anglers typically prefer the baitcasting reel. This is even more so when using heavier lures and lines designed for the bigger fish.
Most baitcasting reels now incorporate a break system designed to adjust the resistance or drag on the spool. This is what is called an anti backlash system, these system can be either mechanical or magnetic. They allow you to adjust how much resistance is placed on the spool to pull the right amount of line off the spool when casting. They come with either a star drags or a simple drag knob which is used to set the drag for fighting the fish.
You can also select a baitcasting reel for your style of fishing offshore reels are designed to fight large fish from a boat Trolling reels allow you to drag live bait or a lure as you troll in a boat and are available in a wide range of sizes. Casting reels give you the benefit of precision casts. The casting reel comes in two casting styles, pitching to cast overhead or sidearm, and flipping to cast underhand in tight situations such as underneath tree branches.
Spin Casting ReelsThe spin-casting reel is probably the least used reel for steelhead for several reasons. They do not hold as much line as the spinning reel or the baitcasting reel, this effect their casting performance. Since the amount of line is limited should you hook into a large aggressive steelhead that wants to run you most likely will run out of line before the steelhead wears out causing you to loose the fish. They do not work well with the heaver lines either. They are ok for the younger angler to get started with especially if they just learning how to cast and fight a fish.
About the Author
Here at the Steelhead Angler we believe that Steelhead and Salmon fishing is one of the most challenging sports fishing experiences. Today's angler has a wide selection of fishing locations and fishing styles to enjoy. It is our mission to provide you with the knowledge and products to help you become a better steelhead angler. The Steelhead Angler
0
votes
vote
There are three popular types of fishing reels used for fishing today. The spinning reel, spin-casting reel, and baitcasting reel each provide the angler with different performance characteristics.
The Spinning Reel Perhaps the most commonly used reel today have been used by angler around the world and offer the angler the full spectrum of fishing types. They are easy to learn how to use and come in a full range of sizes. The spinning reel can be used for the smallest of game fish to some of the largest. You will find them with either a front or rear-drag adjustment system. This like the reel choice is more of a matter of personal preference.
The Spin-Casting Reel This is probably the easiest, most trouble free reel type that, and angler can buy. It is very popular among the novice anglers for this reason. While they do have minimum limits as to the amount of line they hold and they do not cast as far as other types of reels they are still a good choice for the beginning and young angler.
Baitcasting ReelsSome believe that the baitcasting reel is the ultimate in fishing reels. While you will enjoy their smooth performance, they too have their own limitations. They do provide the angler with longer casting capabilities under most circumstances and they have a drag system, which will provide the angler total control of the adjustment.
Spinning reels The spinning fishing reels are an open-faced reel. Your line is released from a stationary spool by flipping a bail wire, a piece of metal wire across the spool called a bail. This stationary spool keeps the line in place and helps prevent snarls and tangled line. The weight of your lure or bait is what propels the line forward when casting. Spinning reels can handle smaller baits lures, or weights. However, today's spinning reels are designed for use on the lightest to some of the heavier fish such as the steelhead and salmon. The spinning reel comes in either a left or right hand retrieve, or some are adjustable for either hand. Spinning reels use an anti-reverse, a simple mechanism you can set to keep the reel from turning in reveres. The anti-reverse lock is usually a lever mounted on the gear housing cover or the back of the reel. This keeps your line from spooling off once you get a strike from a fish. It prevents the reel handle from turning in reverse when you hook a fish and it runs or when you are trolling. This simple to use lever can be easily tripped on or off allowing you control of your line when releasing for trolling and then tripped while waiting for a fish to strike. Automatic anti-reverse requires no manual settings this type of reel will not spin backwards.
The spinning reel is widely used among steelhead anglers as it allows you to switch for the heaviest of baits to the lightest and still be able to cast well.
Baitcasting ReelThe baitcasting reel sometimes called a levelwind reel may be the most preferred type of reel by experience steelhead anglers under most fishing circumstances today.
Baitcasting reels work with the weight from the bait or lure. This weight pulls on the line and turns the spool, as the spool turns it releases more line. The heavier the lure is the longer the cast can be.
With practice, this style of reel also will allow you to cast more accurately.
The more experienced anglers typically prefer the baitcasting reel. This is even more so when using heavier lures and lines designed for the bigger fish.
Most baitcasting reels now incorporate a break system designed to adjust the resistance or drag on the spool. This is what is called an anti backlash system, these system can be either mechanical or magnetic. They allow you to adjust how much resistance is placed on the spool to pull the right amount of line off the spool when casting. They come with either a star drags or a simple drag knob which is used to set the drag for fighting the fish.
You can also select a baitcasting reel for your style of fishing offshore reels are designed to fight large fish from a boat Trolling reels allow you to drag live bait or a lure as you troll in a boat and are available in a wide range of sizes. Casting reels give you the benefit of precision casts. The casting reel comes in two casting styles, pitching to cast overhead or sidearm, and flipping to cast underhand in tight situations such as underneath tree branches.
Spin Casting ReelsThe spin-casting reel is probably the least used reel for steelhead for several reasons. They do not hold as much line as the spinning reel or the baitcasting reel, this effect their casting performance. Since the amount of line is limited should you hook into a large aggressive steelhead that wants to run you most likely will run out of line before the steelhead wears out causing you to loose the fish. They do not work well with the heaver lines either. They are ok for the younger angler to get started with especially if they just learning how to cast and fight a fish.
About the Author
Here at the Steelhead Angler we believe that Steelhead and Salmon fishing is one of the most challenging sports fishing experiences. Today's angler has a wide selection of fishing locations and fishing styles to enjoy. It is our mission to provide you with the knowledge and products to help you become a better steelhead angler. The Steelhead Angler
Line Tips
Choosing the Right Fishing Line by RR Smith
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Now that you have an idea about what type of fishing rod and reel you need it is time to think about the type of fishing line to get.
Manufacturers offers today's anglers high quality Steelhead and Salmon, and Lines made of the finest materials. You will find some of the highest quality fishing lines available any where fishing tackle is sold.
You will find brand names like; Berkley, Black Widow, Cajun, Grand Slam, Mustad, P-line, Power Pro, Ultra Sport and others.
You can find the fishing line you need in the weight, brand, color, you are looking for you will also find bulk lines. So let us look at what is out there.
Monofilament Line; Monofilament Line has long been the standard for fishing and is the most cost efficient of fishing lines.
Monofilaments fishing lines has been around for years and they are the most popular kinds of lines, they are also the most common. They work for a wide variety of fishing applications and, made to have specific qualities that help under varying conditions.
Mixtures of polymers are heated until they turn to liquid, and then forced through tiny holes to form strands of line. These strands are cooled quickly and wound onto spools. The size of the hole controls the diameter of the line; this to some extent determines the pound test of the line. The type of chemicals in the mixture controls the qualities of the line like limpness, strength, toughness and other desirable casting factors. Added chemicals also control the color of the line. Lines can be tailor made to fit a wide range of needs.
Monofilaments lines come in a wide variety of qualities. The expensive lines have a better quality control they will be consistent in strength, color and diameter. They will hold up longer on the spool and in use. Monofilament line stretches, which can be good or bad. Stretch makes line more forgiving when a big fish makes a strong run, but it also makes it harder to set the hook. The additives control the amount of stretch but all monofilament will stretch some.
On spinning reels, a limp, flexible line is best but lines with those qualities are usually not as strong and stretch more.
Stiffer line works well on bait casting reels and it can be stronger and have less stretch. Stiffer lines are also usually more abrasion resistant. Stiffer lines hold the shape of the spool more this trait, known as memory, causes problems when casting at times. It also makes the line coil after a cast and lowers your ability to feel and control your fishing lure or bait.
Monofilament is some of the least expensive fishing line, and works in a wide range of fishing conditions. It is very popular and will probably be your best choice for general fishing activities.
Braided lines; Braided lines; are some of the strongest fishing lines available. Some Anglers call braided lines "The Hercules of Fishing Line" For those of us old-timers who think of "Braided Line" as the equivalent of "hemp rope" we used to use in the 60's should take a look at them today.
Today braided lines are thin, have very little memory, comes off the spool like silk, is tough as Hades, do not absorb water and weaken, can stand up to high temps and sunlight and not lose its strength, and has NO stretch.
It is more expensive then Stren or other "premium" monofilament lines, but it is cheaper in the long run. Since the braided, lines are not affected as much by the environmental conditions you will not be re-spooling as often and it does not nick as easily so you are not clipping and retying as often either. We use 20 lb, moss green and catch steelhead even in the clearest of water. We fish out in the river current that is (crystal clear) and the warning about "Don't let the fish see your line!" does not, for some reason, apply to this line. I am sure they must see it but they must not be as spooked by it. We do however use a Fluorocarbon leader and adjust the strength as needed when fishing with the braided lines.
Again, you will not be sorry for purchasing a braided line.
Fluorocarbon Lines: The newer fused and fluorocarbons offer the angler smaller diameter lines which are harder for the fish to see yet provide the angler with the strength that is required for pulling in that trophy Steelhead. They are however some of the most expensive lines on the market today.
One of the greatest attributes of the fluorocarbon line is it's toughness. This line is not nicked up anywhere near the way that monofilament does. Hence, you are not retying much at all. With mono, you find yourself retying all the time. I would retie up 30 times a day during a steelhead-fishing trip. This also required refilling the spool constantly after a few days of cutting off and retying line.
Now with fluorocarbon, amazingly, I can fish all day in the strongest of currents, catch 10 fish, and not have to retie once! This fluorocarbon stuff is a lot tougher than most people realize. Now, for my fishing style, I have only used fluorocarbon that tests in 10, 14, 16 and 20 lb. test strengths. I cannot speak for the lighter lines. You do not need to change the fluorocarbon as you do the monofilament lines. In addition, fluorocarbon is amazing to cast with, due to its unique properties. It just flies off the spool of your reel. You will experience some over-runs at first, but the perceptive and experienced caster can adjust his braking system to avoid this from happening. I am talking about baitcasting gear here, not spinning gear. I have not had any problems with kinks being a weak spot in the fluorocarbon.
By the way, I do spray my fluorocarbon with Reel Magic on every trip. The slick dressing of Reel Magic helps keep the kinks and loops out while casting, plus the line flows through the guides more easily. I hope this helps.
The fluorocarbons seem to have to much memory to work well on a spinning reel as the line keeps wanting to uncoil off the spool. I have filled a couple of reels with the fluorocarbons and let them sit for about a month and they did work ok but I still had some problems.
No matter what your preference is from ice fishing, trolling, bait casting, today you will find a fishing line to meet your needs.
About the Author
Here at the Steelhead Angler we believe that Steelhead and Salmon fishing is one of the most challenging sports fishing experiences. Today's angler has a wide selection of fishing locations and fishing styles to enjoy. It is our mission to provide you with the knowledge and products to help you become a better steelhead angler.The Steelhead Angler
0
votes
vote
Now that you have an idea about what type of fishing rod and reel you need it is time to think about the type of fishing line to get.
Manufacturers offers today's anglers high quality Steelhead and Salmon, and Lines made of the finest materials. You will find some of the highest quality fishing lines available any where fishing tackle is sold.
You will find brand names like; Berkley, Black Widow, Cajun, Grand Slam, Mustad, P-line, Power Pro, Ultra Sport and others.
You can find the fishing line you need in the weight, brand, color, you are looking for you will also find bulk lines. So let us look at what is out there.
Monofilament Line; Monofilament Line has long been the standard for fishing and is the most cost efficient of fishing lines.
Monofilaments fishing lines has been around for years and they are the most popular kinds of lines, they are also the most common. They work for a wide variety of fishing applications and, made to have specific qualities that help under varying conditions.
Mixtures of polymers are heated until they turn to liquid, and then forced through tiny holes to form strands of line. These strands are cooled quickly and wound onto spools. The size of the hole controls the diameter of the line; this to some extent determines the pound test of the line. The type of chemicals in the mixture controls the qualities of the line like limpness, strength, toughness and other desirable casting factors. Added chemicals also control the color of the line. Lines can be tailor made to fit a wide range of needs.
Monofilaments lines come in a wide variety of qualities. The expensive lines have a better quality control they will be consistent in strength, color and diameter. They will hold up longer on the spool and in use. Monofilament line stretches, which can be good or bad. Stretch makes line more forgiving when a big fish makes a strong run, but it also makes it harder to set the hook. The additives control the amount of stretch but all monofilament will stretch some.
On spinning reels, a limp, flexible line is best but lines with those qualities are usually not as strong and stretch more.
Stiffer line works well on bait casting reels and it can be stronger and have less stretch. Stiffer lines are also usually more abrasion resistant. Stiffer lines hold the shape of the spool more this trait, known as memory, causes problems when casting at times. It also makes the line coil after a cast and lowers your ability to feel and control your fishing lure or bait.
Monofilament is some of the least expensive fishing line, and works in a wide range of fishing conditions. It is very popular and will probably be your best choice for general fishing activities.
Braided lines; Braided lines; are some of the strongest fishing lines available. Some Anglers call braided lines "The Hercules of Fishing Line" For those of us old-timers who think of "Braided Line" as the equivalent of "hemp rope" we used to use in the 60's should take a look at them today.
Today braided lines are thin, have very little memory, comes off the spool like silk, is tough as Hades, do not absorb water and weaken, can stand up to high temps and sunlight and not lose its strength, and has NO stretch.
It is more expensive then Stren or other "premium" monofilament lines, but it is cheaper in the long run. Since the braided, lines are not affected as much by the environmental conditions you will not be re-spooling as often and it does not nick as easily so you are not clipping and retying as often either. We use 20 lb, moss green and catch steelhead even in the clearest of water. We fish out in the river current that is (crystal clear) and the warning about "Don't let the fish see your line!" does not, for some reason, apply to this line. I am sure they must see it but they must not be as spooked by it. We do however use a Fluorocarbon leader and adjust the strength as needed when fishing with the braided lines.
Again, you will not be sorry for purchasing a braided line.
Fluorocarbon Lines: The newer fused and fluorocarbons offer the angler smaller diameter lines which are harder for the fish to see yet provide the angler with the strength that is required for pulling in that trophy Steelhead. They are however some of the most expensive lines on the market today.
One of the greatest attributes of the fluorocarbon line is it's toughness. This line is not nicked up anywhere near the way that monofilament does. Hence, you are not retying much at all. With mono, you find yourself retying all the time. I would retie up 30 times a day during a steelhead-fishing trip. This also required refilling the spool constantly after a few days of cutting off and retying line.
Now with fluorocarbon, amazingly, I can fish all day in the strongest of currents, catch 10 fish, and not have to retie once! This fluorocarbon stuff is a lot tougher than most people realize. Now, for my fishing style, I have only used fluorocarbon that tests in 10, 14, 16 and 20 lb. test strengths. I cannot speak for the lighter lines. You do not need to change the fluorocarbon as you do the monofilament lines. In addition, fluorocarbon is amazing to cast with, due to its unique properties. It just flies off the spool of your reel. You will experience some over-runs at first, but the perceptive and experienced caster can adjust his braking system to avoid this from happening. I am talking about baitcasting gear here, not spinning gear. I have not had any problems with kinks being a weak spot in the fluorocarbon.
By the way, I do spray my fluorocarbon with Reel Magic on every trip. The slick dressing of Reel Magic helps keep the kinks and loops out while casting, plus the line flows through the guides more easily. I hope this helps.
The fluorocarbons seem to have to much memory to work well on a spinning reel as the line keeps wanting to uncoil off the spool. I have filled a couple of reels with the fluorocarbons and let them sit for about a month and they did work ok but I still had some problems.
No matter what your preference is from ice fishing, trolling, bait casting, today you will find a fishing line to meet your needs.
About the Author
Here at the Steelhead Angler we believe that Steelhead and Salmon fishing is one of the most challenging sports fishing experiences. Today's angler has a wide selection of fishing locations and fishing styles to enjoy. It is our mission to provide you with the knowledge and products to help you become a better steelhead angler.The Steelhead Angler
Steelheading tips
As the fall of the year swings into high gear, and the winter is quickly approaching, it means that crappy cold weather is on its way, or already here in some cases. And when the crappy weather starts, that can only mean one thing. It's time for steelhead fishing! And with steelhead fishing, comes steelhead fishing tips. For the steelhead angler, steelhead fishing tips are always welcomed, and with any luck, these steelhead tips will help you catch a few more of these bruising beauties?
Steelhead fishing is probably as much of a "lifestyle" as any other type of angling. Anglers who consistently catch steelhead, have secrets and tips that other anglers don't realize, in many cases. Maybe one of these steel head fishing tips will help you out. Some might seem amazingly sophomoric, but what the hey? Many times it the simple things in life that are the most important and steelhead fishing is no different. In any case, here are a few steelhead fishing tips to make you a more successful steelhead angler:
When In Doubt, SET THE HOOK! - If you feel anything unnatural in your drift, it's a good idea to set the hook. Does this mean that you'll set the hook into a log or bottom from time to time? Of course, but many times it's also a steel head. Steelhead rest on the bottom of rivers and therefore your bait or lure needs to be presented very near the bottom, and this means that snags will occur. Getting snagged is simply part of steelhead fishing, and I'm sure that any veteran Steelhead angler would concur. The bottom line is that if anything unnatural occurs in your drift or retrieve, set the hook!
Fish At The Proper Times - This can be an incredible advantage to the steel header, and is a great steelhead fishing tip. We want to be on the water when the fish are the most active, whenever possible. This means having some knowledge about the weather and moon and how they both relate to the behavior of fish. There are no two factors that effect steelhead fishing like the weather and moon, so take a few minutes and learn how these two natural occurrences effect the feeding activity of fish (steelhead).
Get To Know Your River - As a steel head angler, it's very important that you get to know the water conditions of the river you fish intimately. You see, steelhead will only hold (rest) in about 5% of any particular river, and you need to know where these areas are. And these areas change as water conditions change. This is why some study of hydrology and know your particular river well is so important. Get to know your river, and know it well.
Double Your Pleasure - If you like to use bait or egg sacks for steelhead, a great steelhead fishing tip is to use gang hooks instead of single hooks. Gang hooks arte simply a pair of hooks tied in tandem, that enable you to present double the bait. A set of pre-tied #6 gang hooks, is perfect for steelhead fishing. Don't you think that two egg sacks or shrimp drifting by, would be more enticing to a steelhead than just one? I'll tell you from experience, it is. When using bait such as egg sacks or shrimp, always use gang hooks.
These simple steelhead fishing tips will help you catch more steelhead. How am I so sure of this? Because they all wok for me, and I know they will work for anyone. Now bundle up, put on your rain gear, and get out there and catch some steelhead. And never forget what Steven Wright said of all of us anglers; "There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore, looking like an idiot". I don't think any truer words have ever been spoken.
Trevor Kugler is co-founder of JRWfishing.com and an avid angler. He has more than 20 years experience fishing for all types of fish, and 15 years of business and internet experience. He currently raises his three year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country…..Montana!
Get Fishing Tips & Techniques Twice A Month For FREE - http://www.jrwfishing.com/signup.html
Steelhead fishing is probably as much of a "lifestyle" as any other type of angling. Anglers who consistently catch steelhead, have secrets and tips that other anglers don't realize, in many cases. Maybe one of these steel head fishing tips will help you out. Some might seem amazingly sophomoric, but what the hey? Many times it the simple things in life that are the most important and steelhead fishing is no different. In any case, here are a few steelhead fishing tips to make you a more successful steelhead angler:
When In Doubt, SET THE HOOK! - If you feel anything unnatural in your drift, it's a good idea to set the hook. Does this mean that you'll set the hook into a log or bottom from time to time? Of course, but many times it's also a steel head. Steelhead rest on the bottom of rivers and therefore your bait or lure needs to be presented very near the bottom, and this means that snags will occur. Getting snagged is simply part of steelhead fishing, and I'm sure that any veteran Steelhead angler would concur. The bottom line is that if anything unnatural occurs in your drift or retrieve, set the hook!
Fish At The Proper Times - This can be an incredible advantage to the steel header, and is a great steelhead fishing tip. We want to be on the water when the fish are the most active, whenever possible. This means having some knowledge about the weather and moon and how they both relate to the behavior of fish. There are no two factors that effect steelhead fishing like the weather and moon, so take a few minutes and learn how these two natural occurrences effect the feeding activity of fish (steelhead).
Get To Know Your River - As a steel head angler, it's very important that you get to know the water conditions of the river you fish intimately. You see, steelhead will only hold (rest) in about 5% of any particular river, and you need to know where these areas are. And these areas change as water conditions change. This is why some study of hydrology and know your particular river well is so important. Get to know your river, and know it well.
Double Your Pleasure - If you like to use bait or egg sacks for steelhead, a great steelhead fishing tip is to use gang hooks instead of single hooks. Gang hooks arte simply a pair of hooks tied in tandem, that enable you to present double the bait. A set of pre-tied #6 gang hooks, is perfect for steelhead fishing. Don't you think that two egg sacks or shrimp drifting by, would be more enticing to a steelhead than just one? I'll tell you from experience, it is. When using bait such as egg sacks or shrimp, always use gang hooks.
These simple steelhead fishing tips will help you catch more steelhead. How am I so sure of this? Because they all wok for me, and I know they will work for anyone. Now bundle up, put on your rain gear, and get out there and catch some steelhead. And never forget what Steven Wright said of all of us anglers; "There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore, looking like an idiot". I don't think any truer words have ever been spoken.
Trevor Kugler is co-founder of JRWfishing.com and an avid angler. He has more than 20 years experience fishing for all types of fish, and 15 years of business and internet experience. He currently raises his three year old daughter in the heart of trout fishing country…..Montana!
Get Fishing Tips & Techniques Twice A Month For FREE - http://www.jrwfishing.com/signup.html
Mid January on the north coast
After the snow of Christmas and the subsequent flooding from the thaw, our beloved northwestern Oregon rivers are finally coming into shape for some fantastic steelhead fishing. Today's report shows the northfork Nehalem in perfect condition, but the real news is the Wilson is finally fishable. For the next week many anxious steeheaders will venture successfully to the mighty Wilson with visions of winter steel in their minds. Many will come away empty handed, but still more will achieve the victory of catching what many hold as the holy grail of the anadramous species. Good luck to all. more to come later.
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